QHoptpoint RL63P - correct part but how do I locate the thermostat in the fridge?2 Answers
- 13 June 2009
Not sure about the RL63P, but I've just fixed the thermo in my RL78P. PARAMOUNT - SWITCH FRIDGE OFF AND UNPLUG IT FROM THE MAINS!!! Decant everything plus the shelves - you will need the room. On the right hand side just above midpoint is a lozenge-shaped housing which contains lamp/thermo and lamp switch. To gain access to the thermo, locate the cleverly hidden fixing screw - there's a small grey prise-out disc just to the right of the control knob. Unscrew that and the housing should release when you draw it back - gently! There are locating tabs on the housing which slide into slots in the lining. Unscrew the retaining nut from the thermo spindle and release the thermo. Now make a diagram of the wiring connectors on both the thermo and the lamp switch. Disconnect all leads to these components (no need to touch the actual lamp connectors). You WILL need this diagram when re-connecting new thermo. Now unscrew the retaining screws on the freezing panel at the back of the fridge - be VERY CAREFUL when you pull it forward and to the left to give you access to the thermocouple end. The thick pipe attached to the panel contains the coolant fluid. The pipe is flexible enough to withstand moderate movement. There should be two screws and a plastic fillet securing the t'couple to the panel. Unscrew the screws (remembering to keep the screws in a container - easily lost under the fridge!!). The new t'couple can be bent into a U just like the defective one. Fit the new thermostat by reversing the removal instructions. Good luck - patience is a virtue!
- 12 July 2009
The thermostat is located in the same housing aas the fridge light. Once you have unplugged the fridge, remove the 1 (or possibly) 2 screws that hold the light housing to the side of the fridge. Once released you will see the thermostat.
The rear channel keeps blocking up with ice and I have to pour hot water to melt and clear it
The freezer has an abnormal amount of ice build up in the bottom
I assume its the thermostat
Your site is out of stock for my FFA70S
Can you help
By Naomi- Hull
- 12 June 2014
For information to diagnose your problem see our video:
QWiring for Hotpoint Fridge RL78P thermostat1 Answer
I bought a secondhand fridge that switches on cools down and cuts out OK but then does not switch back on again. I changed the thermostat taking a photo of the connections before removing the old one. But the problem remains the same. I am suspicious that the connections may not be correct. There was evidence that someone else had removed the thermostat before me. Can you please advise me of the correct connections for this model. Thanks
By Leo- Bournemouth
- 19 October 2013
I suspect the problem may be the compressor, If the thermostat has tried to restart the compressor then you may hear a faint buzz followed by a 'tick' that will occur for approx 3 seconds every 90 seconds and the compressor will remain hot if left 'stalled' for 24 hours. if the compressor goes cool then look at the thermostat again.
If it is a compressor fault you will need to contact a systems engineer to replace the compressor.
My fridge is freezing up a lot so I suspect the thermostat, before I get one to do it myself, how would I replace it? Many thanks
By Kit- Exmouth
- 27 November 2010
Hi Kit, the thermostat is positioned behind the temperature controls - you'll have to remove the control knob and any housing to get to the thermostat. Once you've done that, you'd need to feed in the new thermostat's 'string' and put back together.
I have a Scandinova tall fridge, it has stopped working. The thermostat has four connectors on the back, brown / white / red / earth. With the fridge switched on and voltmeter between brown and the white or red connectors, I get 240v.
At rear of fridge there is 240 v in from mains, some sort of box of tricks (with wires in from the thermostat etc) and then the output to the compressor. I get 55v from this with thermostat switched on and 27v switched off. The compressor is marked up "240v". Can anyone tell me whether this is a faulty thermostat or other problem please?
By Anonymous- South Wales
- 24 November 2010
Hi there, it sounds like it could be the PCB itself - if the fridge has stopped working entirely it suggests something wrong with the 'brain' of the fridge. Generally speaking the most common symptom of a failed thermostat is the temperature in the fridge being too cold or too warm.
QHotpoint RLA84 Fridge freezing at the back.1 Answer
The back wall of the fridge has a layer of ice in the top half, bottom half is completely normal, the temperature indicator inside is green and says ok, no matter what I do with the temperature control (it is currently set at number 1) there is no differrence, the door appears to fit properly. Any ideas? Is it a case of a new thermostat needed?
By Natalie- Clacton on sea
- 04 November 2010
Hi Natalie, the most common cause of icy build up in the fridge is a damaged door seal, but if yours is fine, then I'm guessing it could well be something related to the thermostat - maybe the stat itself or the control knob. Try removing the control knob first to get a closer look before you order. Hope this helps.
I have a Hotpoint fridge/freezer (model No FF200E) and think it may need a new thermostat as the temperature in the fridge is just under room temperature and wont go any lower.
The freezer works fine and the whole appliance makes the same noise as normal.
By ferrykenny- Fife
- 25 August 2010
It must be worth a try if you are confident about fitting it. Much cheaper than buying a new fridge freezer.
QI want to check my fridge thermostat (Hotpoint Iced Diamond RL84N) by bi-passing the thermostat. The thermostat has a brown power-in wire which ...1 Answer
... loops to the switch and light, and a green and white wire. Which two wires do I need to short to check if the the thermostat is the problem?
By Edina320- Edinburgh
- 16 August 2010
Hi Edina320, I'm a little wary of giving you instructions on this - I don't want to electrocute you! All I'll say is that the brown or red wires are live, blue or black wires are neutral and green and yellow striped wires are earth.