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How to Diagnose Washer Dryer Drying Problems

Firstly a quick explanation of your washer dryer. If you set it to a wash, rinse or spin cycle the machine will behave as a standard washing machine. However if you've also set the drying function the machine will continue after a wash to tumble the drum as hot air is passed through it.

Hopefully by watching this video you will be able to identify the issue that you might be experiencing with regards to your washer dryer.

What You Will Need:

Switch Off Your Appliance

Safety First! Please make sure that you have switched your appliance off at the mains before starting your repair.

What’s Wrong? - Machine Won’t Perform The Drying Function Correctly

If we take off the top panel, you can now see the typical components within the appliance - made up of the motor and fan, heater box with the elements and thermostats or cut outs. At the rear of the machine is where the condenser is located.

The fan pushes air through the heater box, and then this hot air then enters the drum. The hot air is then passed through the washing load, where it will then absorb moisture. Moist air exits the back of the drum via this hose where it enters the water cooled condenser, drawing out the moisture. This air then re-enters the fan and is heated again.

Cause 1: A Faulty Element

The first thing to check when there is an issue with the drying function not performing as it should be doing is the elements. This washer dryer has two heater elements, one on top of the other, and a really easy way to check these is to use a multimeter.

To do this you need to disconnect one of the electrical connectors to allow you to get an accurate reading from the element, and nothing else. The reading you're looking for is between 25 and the 150 ohms - as anything outside of this means that your element is likely to be faulty.

With the machine set to its lowest resistance setting the reading we are getting from the elements is around 80 ohms - So this means that this element is fine.

Cause 2: A Faulty Thermostat

The next thing to check is the thermostats (or cut outs) Using a multimeter if you cross the probes the reading should be very similar to that across the thermostats, and as you can see in this case these thermostats are fine.

If you have a very high resistance reading, and your thermostats have these buttons on the top, press them and that will effectively reset the thermostats.

Cause 3: A Faulty Fan Or Motor

The next place to check is the fan, as it is possible that fluff or lint can enter the fan which will then stop it from spinning. There is a very easy way for you to check the fan, and this is to spin the motor cooling fan on the outside which is connected to the heater fan via a spindle.

In this instance it is spinning very freely, and is not obstructed. You can also check your motor using your multimeter, a reading at below 500 ohms means the motor is fine.

What’s Wrong? - Washing Takes A Long Time To Dry - But Comes Out Very Hot

Cause 1: Water Not Being Fed To The Condenser

If this sounds familiar to you, all you need to do is follow the hose from the condenser to the relevant valve, and then you can check this with your multimeter. A reading of around 4,000 ohms means the valve is electrically fine but could still be blocked.

Need To Locate The Spares For Your Washing Machine?

We do hope you have found this video useful in helping to identify exactly what is causing your machine won’t finish a wash cycle. You can also see our full range of Washing Machine spare parts on our website.

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